Madeira is a Portuguese island in the North Atlantic Ocean, lying some 520 kilometres west of the African coast and roughly 1,000 kilometres south-west of Lisbon. It is the largest and only permanently populated island of the Madeira archipelago, which also includes Porto Santo, the uninhabited Desertas and the remote Selvagens. Together with the Azores, Madeira forms one of Portugal’s two autonomous regions and is part of Macaronesia, the scattered group of volcanic island chains that includes the Canaries, Cape Verde and the Azores.

The island is, in essence, the summit of a vast underwater shield volcano — a mountain so steep that its central peaks rise to 1,862 metres within twenty kilometres of the shore. This compression of altitude into a tiny footprint gives Madeira its defining character: a dramatic, deeply ravined landscape of cloud forest, terraced slopes and sheer sea cliffs, where the climate can shift from subtropical warmth to alpine chill in the course of a single morning’s drive.

Why the island matters

For its size, Madeira has had an outsized influence. Settled from 1420 as one of the first territories of the Portuguese Age of Discovery, it became an early laboratory for the sugar-and-slavery plantation economy that Europe would later export across the Atlantic. Its fortified wine was prized in the courts and colonies of the 18th century — famously raised in a toast at the signing of the American Declaration of Independence. And its laurisilva, the largest surviving remnant of the laurel forest that once blanketed southern Europe, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a living window into the Earth’s distant past.

Today the island is best known to the wider world as a destination for walkers, drawn by the levadas — a centuries-old network of irrigation channels, threaded with footpaths, that contours across cliffs and bores through the mountains for thousands of kilometres.

The shape of the land

Madeira runs roughly east to west, about 57 km long and never more than 22 km wide. A high central ridge — culminating in Pico Ruivo, Pico das Torres and Pico do Areeiro — divides the island into two contrasting halves:

  • The north is wetter, greener and wilder, its slopes draped in cloud and laurel forest, its coast a wall of black cliffs.
  • The south, in the rain shadow, is sunnier and gentler — the side that holds Funchal, the vineyards and most of the population.

To the far east the land narrows to the bare, ochre-coloured Ponta de São Lourenço, a treeless volcanic peninsula that looks like a different island entirely. (More on the island’s geology →)

People and identity

Madeira has its own government, flag and cultural identity within Portugal, the legacy of an autonomy granted after the 1974 Carnation Revolution. The population is concentrated overwhelmingly in and around the capital, Funchal, on the south coast. Centuries of emigration — to Brazil, Venezuela, South Africa, the United States and the Channel Islands — have woven Madeiran communities across the world, and remittances and returnees have long shaped island life.

The modern economy rests on tourism above all, supplemented by wine, bananas, embroidery and the offshore International Business Centre. (More on the economy →)

A note on the name

When Portuguese navigators arrived, they found the island so densely wooded that they named it simply Madeira — Portuguese for “wood.” Much of that original lowland forest was cleared or burned within the first decades of settlement to make way for sugar and vines, but its higher, mist-fed survivor — the laurisilva — endures, and gives the island the green mantle that still defines it.

See also